Tuesday (05-February-2013) — Norway

Gone to See Norway 2013. Chasing the Northern Lights. Day 8: Northbound Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage.

On the sixth day of the northbound Hurtigruten coastal voyage, the MS Nordkapp stops in seven ports: Øksfjord (02:00-02:15); Hammerfest (05:15-06:45); Havøsund (09:30-09:45); Honningsvåg (11:45-15:15); Kjøllefjord (17:30-17:45); Mehamn (19:30-20:00); and Berlevåg (22:30-22:45).

Last night the ship went to the narrow entrance of Trollfjord, and shined some lights to show the narrow passage and high walls. In the summer the Hurtigruten ships go into Trollfjord as part of the northbound voyage. In the winter they only go to the entrance due to avalanche danger. After the ship turned the lights off, I thought that I got an image with a glimmer of green from some low northern lights. The ship staff told me that it was just a reflection on a cloud from one of the fish farms. I went out again early in the morning and got an image that does show some faint northern light activity. Later in the evening, I got some more images showing some northern light activity. Several passengers asked why my camera was able to see the northern lights as bright green where they could barely see anything with their eyes, let alone with point and shoot cameras. The tour director on the ship was not yet making a ship wide announcement that northern lights were visible since he didn’t want folks to go away and say “is that all there is?”. Before beginning this trip I debated not taking a DSLR. Now I am glad that I did. These images were taken at ISO 1600, f/1.4, and 4 seconds. I didn’t have the tripod out with me so I held the camera body against my chest. You can see some camera motion in the stars, but it is not as bad as I thought it would be. For white balance, I used 3500 °K as a starting point since that is what I use when photographing star trails.

Early Morning (04:22 AM) Glimmer of Northern Lights While Sailing North on the Hurtigruten MS Nordkapp. Image taken with a Nikon D800 and 24 mm f/1.4G lens (ISO 1600, 24 mm, f/1.4, 4 sec). (David J Mathre)
Early Morning (04:22 AM) Glimmer of Northern Lights While Sailing North on the Hurtigruten MS Nordkapp. Image taken with a Nikon D800 camera and 24 mm f/1.4G lens (ISO 1600, 24 mm, f/1.4, 4 sec). (David J Mathre)
Northern Lights While Sailing North on the Hurtigruten MS Nordkapp. Image taken with a Nikon D800 and 24 mm f/1.4G lens (ISO 1600, 24 mm, f/1.4, 4 sec). (David J Mathre)
Northern Lights While Sailing North on the Hurtigruten MS Nordkapp. Image taken with a Nikon D800 camera and 24 mm f/1.4G lens (ISO 1600, 24 mm, f/1.4, 4 sec). (David J Mathre)

Thursday (31-January-2013) — Norway

Gone to See Norway 2013 Chasing the Northern Lights. Day 3: Bergen then Embarkation on the Northbound Hurtigruten MS Nordkapp Norwegian Coastal Voyage.

Early to bed, early to rise. I received an e-mail overnight from PSE&G indicating they expected a winter storm back in New Jersey with the potential for power outages. I was glad that I remembered to turn the water off before leaving the house. I had a hearty Scandinavian breakfast at the attached Egon restaurant. I didn’t need to checkout of the hotel until noon, so went for a walkabout in Bergen. The rain had stopped, but it was a bit chilly. It was still dark out, with sun not rising until 08:59. I first went to the fish market, hoping to get some early morning pictures of fresh Norwegian fisk. The tents that remember housing the fish market in the past were missing. I then walked out to the location on the map listed as the commercial fish market. When I got there, I realized that wasn’t what I was looking for.

I then walked back to the entrance for the Fløibanen Funicular. The Funicular is a cable driven train that provides a ride to the top of Fløyen mountain. During the winter season, the ride is free with the Bergen card. I missed the first ride at 07:30, but was able to catch the 2nd ride at 08:00. This would still get me to the top of the mountain before sunrise. Even though the ticket office wasn’t open (needed to get the ticket) the Funicular operator let me in and got me the front seat. While waiting for the train about 20-30 pre-school/kindergarten age children were dropped off by their parents to ride to the top of the mountain. The kids were all wearing heavy winter coats and had backpacks. When the kids and their 3 adult guides got to the top they stopped to sing a song, and then went for a hike. It was cold at the top of the mountain, and I put on another layer before taking pictures of Bergen at dawn. The kids seemed to have disappeared into the woods. You could hear them yelling and having fun — It surprised me that they were running around in the still dark woods.

After the sun rose, I returned to Bergen and walked to the Akvariet i Bergen (Bergen Aquarium). Again free entrance with the Bergen card. There were some interesting displays of northern and arctic fish, a room with tropical reptiles and snakes, and a hands-on display of sea creatures that would be found in tidal pools. Outside there was a pool for seals, and a display with Penguins. There were at least 3 groups of pre-school/kindergarten age kids at the Akvariet.

When I walked back to the hotel to check out, I saw why I didn’t find the fish market earlier in the morning. They moved the fish market (and a flower market) indoors under the Bergen Tourist Information center. The same place I went yesterday to buy the Bergen Visitor card. I had a fresh salmon sandwich and Coke for lunch (120 NOK). I passed on the Fisk Soup (200 NOK) although it smelled good. The folks working at the fish market said they moved into the new location last year. They still do have the tents up in the summer when more tourists are in Bergen.

One thing I noticed during this visit to Bergen were a number of folks sitting out at corners with cups begging for change. They did not look local, and the locals did not appear to be giving out any change. I checked out of the hotel and continued to walk around Bergen. I found the Japanese Photography shop where I went to look for some lens cleaner. They didn’t have any in stock – but went to the backroom and gave me an opened bottle for free.

Later in the afternoon, I went back to the top of Fløyen mountain to watch for the arrival of the Hurtigruten MS Nordkapp. I wondered how many of the folks watching the MS Nordkapp arrive would be riding on the Northbound voyage that evening. There were also a number runners doing a race up the mountain that afternoon. I think some were making it up the mountain faster than the Funicular (which does have several stops).

While wondering around on top of the mountain, I did find where all of the kids went running earlier that morning. There is a path going through the woods that has a number of large wooden trolls. Ultimately, the trail ends at a day school. By the time I got back to the top of the Funicular there was a long line of kids, runners, and tourists waiting to take the trip down. I was glad that they doubled the frequency of runs to handle the rush. By the time I got back to the hotel, it was time to get to the Hurtigruten terminal. The taxi ride cost 175 NOK. I could have walked the distance, if I didn’t have the luggage to carry

Check-in at the Hurtigruten terminal was fast. No passport or credit card required. They took my heavy bag and delivered it to my cabin. Before boarding the ship, there was a mandatory safety program. One notable difference between the Hurtigruten ships and the Semester at Sea MV Explorer is that the life vests (and all weather suits) for the Hurtigruten ships are kept on deck 5 with the lifeboats. On the MV Explorer, the life vests are in the cabins.

My cabin on deck 3 had a set of bunk beds and a couch that could be folded open for a 3rd bed. The desk was very small and barely held my laptop computer and various battery chargers. Unlike my previous Northbound Hurtigruten voyage out of Bergen, there was an open seating buffet dinner before we departed. Once on board, we were told that there was a German TV crew that was going to be filming the Northbound voyage. Included with the TV crew were a couple of radio controlled helicopters (drones) to do some of the filming. The ship departed on time at 22:30. Once I downloaded the GPS track for my Bergen walkabout, I realized why my feet were so sore. During the day I walked over 14 miles (not counting the two trips up and down the Funicular).

Moon Over Bergen Norway at Dawn from Mount Fløyen. Image taken with a Leica X2 camera (ISO 400, 24 mm, f/2.8, 1/60 sec). In camera B&W. Composite panorama of 9 vertical images using PTGui Pro 9. (David J. Mathre)
Moon Over Bergen Norway at Dawn from Mount Fløyen. Image taken with a Leica X2 camera (ISO 400, 24 mm, f/2.8, 1/60 sec). In camera B&W. Composite panorama of 9 vertical images using PTGui Pro 9. (David J. Mathre)
Penguin Moving Stones for a Nest at the Akvariet in Bergen (Bergen Aquarium). Image taken with a Nikon 1 V2 and 30-100 mm VR lens (ISO 200, 110 mm, f/5.6, 1/640 sec). (David J. Mathre)
Penguin Moving Stones for a Nest at the Akvariet in Bergen (Bergen Aquarium). Image taken with a Nikon 1 V2 and 30-100 mm VR lens (ISO 200, 110 mm, f/5.6, 1/640 sec). (David J. Mathre)
"No Fly Zone" over Bergen? Sign on one of the trails on top of Mount Fløyen above Bergen Norway. Image taken with a Nikon 1 V2 and 10 mm f/2.8 lens (ISO 200, 10 mm, f/2.8, 1/60 sec). (David J. Mathre)
“No Fly Zone” over Bergen? Sign on one of the trails on top of Mount Fløyen above Bergen Norway. Image taken with a Nikon 1 V2 and 10 mm f/2.8 lens (ISO 200, 10 mm, f/2.8, 1/60 sec). (David J. Mathre)
GPS Track: Walkabout in Bergen (14.4 mile) (David J Mathre)
GPS Track: Walkabout in Bergen (14.4 mile) (David J Mathre)
GPS Track: Northbound Hurtigruten MV Nordkapp Day 1 (23.6 miles) (David J Mathre)
GPS Track: Northbound Hurtigruten MV Nordkapp Day 1 (23.6 miles) (David J Mathre)

 

Six-Years Ago (30-January-2007) — Norway

Gone to See Norway 2007 Family Vacation. Day 10: Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage Traveling South.

On the second day of the southbound Hurtigruten voyage, the ship stopped in eight ports: Mehamn (01:00-01:15); Kjøllefjord (03:15-03:30); Honningsvåg (06:00-06:15); Havøsund (08:15-08:30); Hammerfest (11:15-12:45); Øksfjord (15:30-15:45); Skjervøy (19:00-19:45); and Tromsø (23:45-01:30).

Happy Birthday Dad — From Norway.

Two days earlier the family got together to have a birthday celebration for my father before the majority of the group disembarked the Hurtigruten MS Kong Harald in Kirkenes.

 (Erik Mathre)
(Erik Mathre)
 (Erik Mathre)
(Erik Mathre)
 (Erik Mathre)
(Erik Mathre)
 (Erik Mathre)
(Erik Mathre)

Six-Years Ago (29-January-2007) — Norway

Gone to See Norway 2007 Family Vacation. Day 9: Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage Traveling North Then South.

On the sixth and final day of the northbound Hurtigruten voyage, the MS Kong Harald stopped in four ports: Båtsfjord (00:30-01:00); Vardø (04:00-04:15); Vadsø (07:30-08:00); and Kirkenes (09:45-12:45). After spending 3 hours in Kirkenes, the ship turned around and began the southbound voyage stopping at three ports: Vardø (16:00-17:00); Båtsfjord (20:00-20:30); and Berlevåg (22:15-22:30). All but three from our group disembarked at Kirkenes to return to Florida.

Norway Winter Dawn on the M/S Kong Harald Approaching Kirkenes. Image taken with a Nikon D2xs camera and 28-70 mm f/2.8 lens (ISO 100, 70 mm, f/2.8, 1/2500 sec). (David J Mathre)
Norway Winter Dawn on the M/S Kong Harald Approaching Kirkenes. Image taken with a Nikon D2xs camera and 28-70 mm f/2.8 lens (ISO 100, 70 mm, f/2.8, 1/2500 sec). (David J Mathre)
Gone to See Norway Mathre Family Tour 2007 (David J. Mathre)
Gone to See Norway Mathre Family Tour 2007 (David J. Mathre)
Gone to See Norway Mathre Family Tour 2007 (David J. Mathre)
Gone to See Norway Mathre Family Tour 2007 (David J. Mathre)
Gone to See Norway Mathre Family Tour 2007 (David J. Mathre)
Gone to See Norway Mathre Family Tour 2007 (David J. Mathre)