Sunday (16-January-2011) — Chile

Gone to See Patagonia 2010/2011. Photography Workshop with Thom Hogan. Day 21: Beginning the Journey Home!

Yesterday we moved from the Hotel in Puerto Natales to the Red Cross Refuge center (in the E3 School). Early in the morning we thought that things were about to be settled and thought about a dash in a bus to Calafate Argentina. Our local guide visited the nearest barricade and found that the protesters were in no mood to let anyone through. Therefore, we decided to go with the safe option. By the time we got to the Red Cross site, they had us stand in line to be registered. A line in the main auditorium was for folks wanting to go to Calafate, Argentina, and another line in the gym for folks wanting to go to Punta Arenas. Looking at air schedules out of Calafate, made it look like we could be there for a week or two before catching a flight. Punta Arenas had more flights and appeared to be a better overall choice (even though it is still blockaded from the city 24 km away).  Lunch for 1000+ in the Red Cross center was pasta, some meat sauce, an apple, bread, and orange juice – a typical elementary school meal on the school lunch trays. By late afternoon two buses had been organized to bring folks to the local airport. The initial selection was families with small children, elderly, pregnant women, and sick.  With my cough, I ended up on the 2nd bus, and the rest of the photography group was with the 3rd group.

NOTE: As we were leaving and going through the roadblock we saw others being separated from their transportation and having to walk the 10+ km into Puerto Natales rather than being pointed to the local airport for transportation out of southern Chile.

After running the blockade and being dropped off at the local airport, the Chilean Air force transported us to Punta Arenas via a B737.  This got us past at least 6-10 additional blockades. I ended up sleeping in the airport and taking the first flight out at ~5:40 AM to Santiago. I am currently working in the LAN Executive Salon waiting for a flight to Miami that leaves late tonight.

LAN Business Class Seat - Back as a full lay down bed (David J Mathre)
LAN Business Class Seat – Back as a full lay down bed (David J Mathre)

22-January-2011 edit: Check out Thom Hogan’s blog about being held hostage in southern Chile.

Saturday (15-January-2011) — Chile

Gone to See Patagonia 2010/2011. Photography Workshop with Thom Hogan. Day 20: Detained as Political Prisoners in Puerto Natales.

This morning the streets are quiet. There is black smoke from a bonfire to the east. There was a note under my door that said to have our bags ready to leave by 09:00. I don’t know if that means the roads will be open? If I don’t add more to this post, it may mean that we are moving — but that could be towards Punta Arenas or back to Argentina.


More info. The Red Cross list is now over 1000 stranded here in Puerto Natales. An additional 4000-5000 are stranded in the National Park.


An update from the Mathre family regarding the status of the photography trip to Patagonia:
(taken from David Mathre by Erik via a phone call)

As of 6:30 EST, the Red Cross has gotten the photography group along with about 1,000 others into a Red Cross temporary refugee center in Puerto Natales where they are awaiting transfer by bus to a local airport and then by Air Force transport planes to Punta Arenas or Calafate Argentina. Hopefully, from there they can catch a flight to Santiago. Starting Monday, the Red Cross hopes to start getting the 5,000 or so out of Torres del Paine National Park.


Standing in Line. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 5.1 mm, f/2.2, 1/100 sec). (David J Mathre)
Standing in Line. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 5.1 mm, f/2.2, 1/100 sec).
E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 10.7 mm, f/2.8, 1/30 sec). (David J Mathre)
E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 10.7 mm, f/2.8, 1/30 sec).
Waiting with our Luggage. E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/13 sec). (David J Mathre)
Waiting with our Luggage. E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/13 sec).
Waiting in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 320, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec). (David J Mathre)
Waiting in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 320, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec).
Certificate from the Gobernador of Southern Chile Documenting that we have been Detained in Puerto Natales. E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 160, 10.7 mm, f/2.8, 1/80 sec). (David J Mathre)
Certificate from the Gobernador of Southern Chile Documenting that we have been Detained in Puerto Natales. E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 160, 10.7 mm, f/2.8, 1/80 sec).
Chile Red Cross Worker in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 19.2 mm, f/3.3, 1/125 sec). (David J Mathre)
Chile Red Cross Worker in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 19.2 mm, f/3.3, 1/125 sec).
Waiting with our luggage in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 160, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec). (David J Mathre)
Waiting with our luggage in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 160, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec).
Sharing food from a Grocery Store Run in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 160, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec). (David J Mathre)
Sharing food from a Grocery Store Run in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 160, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec).
Pasta Lunch in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 400, 10 mm, f/2.6, 1/20 sec). (David J Mathre)
Pasta Lunch in the E 3 School Auditorium. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 400, 10 mm, f/2.6, 1/20 sec).
Red Cross/Chilean Military Buses and Truck. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 7.5 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec). (David J Mathre)
Red Cross/Chilean Military Buses and Truck. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 7.5 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec).
Chilean Military. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 17.1 mm, f/3.2, 1/200 sec). (David J Mathre)
Chilean Military. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 17.1 mm, f/3.2, 1/200 sec).
Chilean Military Luggage Transport Truck. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 6.4 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec). (David J Mathre)
Chilean Military Luggage Transport Truck. Red Cross Refuge Center, Puerto Natales E3 School. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 6.4 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec).
Passing the Road Blockade in the Red Cross Bus. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 125, 6.4 mm, f/3.2, 1/500 sec). (David J Mathre)
Passing the Road Blockade in the Red Cross Bus. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 125, 6.4 mm, f/3.2, 1/500 sec).
Red Cross Buses at the Puerto Natales Regional Airport. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 125, 5.1 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec). (David J Mathre)
Red Cross Buses at the Puerto Natales Regional Airport. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 125, 5.1 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec).
Puerto Natales Regional Airport Terminal. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 250, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec). (David J Mathre)
Puerto Natales Regional Airport Terminal. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 250, 5.1 mm, f/2, 1/60 sec).
Luggage Carts Outside the Puerto Natales Regional Airport Terminal. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 5.1 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec). (David J Mathre)
Luggage Carts Outside the Puerto Natales Regional Airport Terminal. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 5.1 mm, f/4, 1/800 sec).
Chilean Pilot Outside the Puerto Natales Regional Airport Terminal. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 13.9 mm, f/2.9, 1/160 sec). (David J Mathre)
Chilean Pilot Outside the Puerto Natales Regional Airport Terminal. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 13.9 mm, f/2.9, 1/160 sec).
Chilean Air Force B-737 Refugee Transport at Puerto Natales Regional Airport (David J Mathre)
Chilean Air Force B-737 Refugee Transport at Puerto Natales Regional Airport
Aerial View of Puerto Natales. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 7.5 mm, f/2.5, 1/100 sec). (David J Mathre)
Aerial View of Puerto Natales. Snapshot taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (ISO 80, 7.5 mm, f/2.5, 1/100 sec).

22-January-2011 edit: Check out Thom Hogan’s blog about being held hostage in southern Chile.

Thursday (13-January-2011) — Chile

Gone to See Patagonia 2010/2011. Photography Workshop with Thom Hogan. Day 18: Detained as Political Prisoners in Puerto Natales.

We are still sitting in a hotel in Puerto Natales. The roads continue to be blocked, and we have no idea when we will be able to get to the airport in Punta Arenas. In essence we are being held political prisoners since we are not able to leave this small town and this country.  Does anyone remember “Missing”.

Update as of 3 PM local. We were looking at an option to return to Argentina and fly back from Calafate. A bus would bring us to the road block and we would have to walk across with our entire luggage. Another bus would pick us up on the other side. The protesters told the driver we could walk across the line, but they would then destroy the bus. So we are probably spending another night in Puerto Natales. The harbor was also closed due to the strike, so that also was not an option.

Update at 5 PM Local. We just checked back into the Hotel.

Fishing Boat in Pureto Natales Harbor. Image taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (David J Mathre)
Fishing Boat in Pureto Natales Harbor. Image taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (David J Mathre)
Hotel Australis in Pureto Natales overlooking the "Fjord of Last Hope." Image taken with a Leica V-Lux 20 camera (David J Mathre)
Hotel Australis in Pureto Natales overlooking the “Fjord of Last Hope.” Image taken with a Leica V-Lux 20 camera (David J Mathre)

22-January-2011 edit: Check out Thom Hogan’s blog about being held hostage in southern Chile.

Wednesday (12-January-2011) — Chile

Gone to See Patagonia 2010/2011. Photography Workshop with Thom Hogan. Day 17: Travel from Torres del Paines National Park to Punta Arenas.

We had been hearing about a general strike in southern Chile. Today we found out it was real. Our bus took a back route out of the National Park to avoid a road block, since shutting down the park was one of the strikers objectives. This doesn’t make sense since tourism is a major source of income for the region. We ran into our first road block near a small airport. Several cars blocked the road, and the people ran around in the rain with their black flags (plastic garbage bags). After 15-20 minutes, the cars withdrew and raced down the road to presumable the next road block. The next road block at the intersection of the highway to Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas was more significant. Trucks were used to block the road and a big pile of wood was being set up for a bon fire. The Guardia watched but didn’t do anything. A strike leader who appeared drunk came up to the bus and told us we couldn’t go through to either Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. He did have a solution for us – we could carry all of our gear and luggage through the strike line and catch a ride to the next town. As we walked through, the cars honked, people jeered, and wave their black flags. Once we were through the line, we realized that all of the local taxis were part of the strike, and no local busses would come to pick us up. It was going to be a several mile walk into Puerto Natales in the rain. I was having a really hard time with a residual cough and being run down from a respiratory infection earlier in the trip. Finally, a farmer with a pick-up stopped and took a couple of us and most of our luggage. I would not have made it without his help. During the walk into town, 125 vehicles passed us – many honking. This farmer was the only one that stopped to help. It was clear that there was no way we would be getting to the airport in Punta Arenas for our flights on Wednesday. I called AMEX and had tentative flight reservations made for the following two days. At this point it is not clear how much longer I will be stuck in Chile. This is a lousy way to end this photo workshop, and has really soured any interest in visiting Chile again. Rob is doing the best he can to find out when we can get to the airport. In the mean time, I should be able to catch up on some of my images.

Roadblock outside of Pureto Natales Chile. Image taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (David J Mathre)
Roadblock outside of Pureto Natales Chile. Image taken with a Leica D-Lux 5 camera (David J Mathre)

22-January-2011 edit: Check out Thom Hogan’s blog about being held hostage in southern Chile.

Monday (27-December-2010) — Argentina

Gone to See Patagonia 2010/2011. Photography Workshop with Thom Hogan. Day 1: Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Since it is summer in the southern hemisphere, the sun rises very early. I went to “Parque Natural Y Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur” to take some bird pictures. Unlike yesterday when the path through the park was open, this morning it was closed. The sign at the gate said the park was open at 8:00 AM November to March. When I asked someone at the gate all he answered was mañana (tomorrow). I guess the park is closed on Monday. Since the workshop doesn’t start until later today I continued my walking tour of the city. Even though it was morning, it was still very hot. Later in the afternoon, we had a walking tour of the city led by Fredrico from Wanderlust Expediciones.  Thom then started the official part of the workshop with an intense lecture. The group had dinner at a local restaurant (lots of beef — this is Argentina).

Estacion Retiron during a morning walk in Buenos Aires. Images taken with a Leica V-Lux 20 camera (ISO 125, 5.7 mm, f/4. 1/500 sec) (David J Mathre)
Estacion Retiron during a morning walk in Buenos Aires. Images taken with a Leica V-Lux 20 camera (ISO 125, 5.7 mm, f/4. 1/500 sec) (David J Mathre)